Seal Space
Posted on Monday, September 19th, 2011 at 2:44 am |
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Seal Space
Keeping warm this winter: What works best - heating your crawl space or insulating it? by Robin Green
We've had some very cold days in the northeastern US and Eastern Canada the last few weeks. Those of us who have a crawl space under our house have had enough of cold floors and cold air on our ankles.
You may think that putting a heater under your living areas will leave you with warmer feet. But it turns out that properly sealing and insulating your crawl space will not only solve your indoor discomfort with cold floors and drafts, it will also avoid problems such as mildew and rot in the crawl space itself, and will make your whole home healthier.
First, let's clear up a common mistake about the proper air flows in a crawl space. For many years, homeowners, homebuilders, and building inspectors have believed that a crawl space needs exterior vents on opposite walls, so that air will flow from one vent to the other, drawing out any extra dampness from the enclosed space. But recent research shows that ventilating a crawl space creates a very different effect, known as the stack effect.
In a nutshell, with a good supply of outside air coming from your crawl space, with a few cracks or hair's width openings between the crawl space and the upstairs, and a few drafts at the top of the house, such as old windows or cracks in the upstairs ceiling, and your house starts acting like a giant chimney stack. Hot air rises, so the warm, heated air inside your house escapes out the top openings, drawing cold air up from the crawl space.
As a result, the cold and humidity (and mold spores and dust) from the crawl space get sucked into your home, increasing your heating expenses and risking your health. Ironically, the better the ventilation in your crawl space, the more heat escapes from your home through upstairs leaks.
Even in warm weather, when there is no crawl space stack effect, putting vents at both ends of the crawl space doesn't actually do much to solve problems of airflow or humidity. There is no effect of rising heat to make the air flow through the vents, if they are both at the same level. And this approach really amounts to addressing the symptoms - poorly at that - instead of curing the disease. The illness, in this case, is excess humidity and air entering the crawl space, and excess transfer of heat during colder months between the crawl space and the outdoors.
You might find that your contractor disagrees with the idea of insulating and sealing a crawl space. It defies conventional wisdom - and it also contravenes many local building codes that were written from that accepted wisdom. But you'll improve your indoor air quality, reduce heat loss, and solve any problems with dampness, mold, or rotting wood down below, if you set this out-of-date belief aside and go with what the research suggests is most effective.
To properly insulate and seal your crawl space, start by removing any sharp objects such as old nails, broken glass, or sharp stones from the floor of the crawl space, so you don't injure your hands or knees as you work (it is a "crawl space" after all). Also, you'll be installing a plastic vapor barrier on the floor and you don't want any sharp objects to push through the barrier and cut it as you are putting it in.
Buy a crawl space liner made specifically for the task - or buy a suitable, thick polyethylene plastic. You'll need thicker than the 6 mil usually used for a vapor barrier - you need to go to 15 or 20 mil thickness if you want a liner that stands the test of time. The liner should be big enough to cover the whole floor along with the walls - preferably without cutting extra pieces for the walls. The best way to compute the size is to add twice the wall height to both the floor width and the floor length, and then add 10% extra to account for slopes plus any measurement errors. So if you have 2 foot walls around the crawl space and a 15 x 20 foot space, you should buy a 21 x 29 foot liner. It's better to buy a bit too much liner than to find yourself having to cut and tape on small pieces when you find out you didn't buy enough to begin with!
Close off any vents, and for crawl space windows, either replace them with energy efficient windows, or at least make sure they are not a source of drafts. You could also cut out rectangular sections of foam insulation to close off the window areas, as this will add an extra level of insulation to windows as well as cut down on drafts. Make sure any doors to the outside are also properly weatherstripped.
If part or all of the walls are wood framed, place batt insulation against the wall between the studs; for masonry walls, use foam board. Be sure that any large cracks in the walls are patched first - wherever you can see sunlight shining in from outside.
Lay the liner over the crawl space floor, and up the walls, covering all exterior wall insulation. Trim the excess folded triangular pieces off where the wall corners meet. Attach the vapor barrier to the studs with a staple gun, and seal all staple points and any cuts or tears in the barrier with mastic tape.
Don't do just part of this job. If you seal the ventilation without adding the liner, or you add the liner without putting in insulation, you are asking for trouble later on. And do it all within a week or two - this shouldn't be one of those home renovations that drags on for months or years.
Once you have properly insulated and sealed your crawl space, you should find your home much more comfortable in winter. Your floors will be warmer, you'll have fewer drafts, and you will be safe from the ill effects of crawl space mold and mildew. In fact, so will the crawl space itself.
And remember the idea we started with, that a crawl space heater might cut the cold on your floors during this cold spell? Well, if you follow the advice above, you'll have no need for such a heater. We closed off the crawl space under our kitchen extension a few years back, and the room became so much more comfortable in winter, we were able to remove the baseboard heaters that had been installed in the kitchen extension when it was built.
Robin Green owns Green-Energy-Efficient-Homes.com, a website that helps people find ways to use less energy at home. Check the site out for information on reducing your energy use on heating, cooling, lighting, and other household activities. For more on staying warm if you have a crawl space, see the crawl space heaters section on Green Energy Efficient Homes.
Article Source: http://www.earticlesonline.com/Article/Keeping-warm-this-winter--What-works-best---heating-your-crawl-space-or-insulating-it-/487250
Seal - Fly Like An Eagle (Space Jam Soundtrack)